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Chen Kieu Pagoda, known in Khmer as Wat Sor Loun and transliterated into Vietnamese as Sa Lon, belongs to the Theravada Buddhist tradition like many other pagodas in Soc Trang Province. Yet it’s the name “Chen Kieu” that highlights the uniqueness of this pagoda: instead of being painted, the exterior is decorated with pieces of porcelain and ceramic bowls and plates (in local dialect, “chen kieu” meaning fancy or patterned bowls and dishes).
The pagoda is vibrant with colorful porcelain details. Photo: Henry Duong
As you pass through Soc Trang and immerse yourself in the cultural blend of Khmer and Vietnamese influences, don’t forget to take some time to visit this unique pagoda. And in this article, let Asia King Travel give you a glimpse of what makes Chen Kieu Pagoda so special, hopefully sparking a bit of inspiration for your visit!
Chen Kieu Pagoda was originally built in a simple style around the early 19th century. However, it was later damaged by wars. In 1969, Monk Tang Duch called for the reconstruction of the pagoda with full facilities. Due to a lack of funding, some parts of the project faced material shortages. That’s when the local people stepped in and donated their everyday rice bowls and plates to support the pagoda.
Everyday rice bowls and plates were transformed into building materials for the pagoda. Photo: Tham hiem Mekong
An idea born out of hardship unexpectedly became the pagoda’s most distinctive feature. Khmer artisans skillfully used the donated bowls and plates to decorate the walls and tower columns. The intact pieces were directly embedded into the walls or crafted into decorative balusters along corridor railings and staircases, while the broken or chipped ones were cleverly arranged into unique and eye-catching mosaic patterns.
The pagoda is located in Dai Tam Commune, My Xuyen District, Soc Trang Province, about 12 kilometers southwest of the provincial capital. Situated right along National Highway 1A, the route to the pagoda is easy and convenient, whether you're coming from Soc Trang City or any other nearby city.
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From the two major cities in southern Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh City and Can Tho, you can follow National Highway 1A south to reach Soc Trang Province. The pagoda is located on the southern outskirts of Soc Trang City. Alternatively, you can travel to Soc Trang by waterways to experience the river life of the Mekong Delta, although this option will take more time.
Don't miss Som Rong Pagoda in Soc Trang City, home to the largest reclining Buddha statue in Vietnam. Photo: Cong ly
The first impression upon entering the pagoda is the three-entrance gate, featuring three towers adorned with intricate carvings and vibrant colors in traditional Khmer style. Among the three towers, the central one stands out with a majestic seated Buddha statue displayed inside a glass case.
Lining the entrance to the pagoda are two rows of Kerno statues, mythical figures with the face of the Apsara fairy, symbolizing eternal beauty, and the body of the Garuda bird, representing strength. These statues add a sense of grandeur and solemnity to the otherwise quiet, meditative atmosphere. Surrounding the pagoda are decorative walls adorned with statues of Apsara ladies dancing.
Statues of Apsara dancers stand at the entrance to the main hall. Photo: Thanh Teddy
In the center of Chen Kieu Pagoda’s courtyard stands a flagpole, featuring a vivid sculpture of the five-headed serpent god Naga. This symbolizes the legendary moment when the Naga spread its heads to shield the meditating Buddha from the rain.
Behind the pagoda lies the Garden of Buddha Shakyamuni’s Teachings and Nirvana. This area is a complex of large and small Buddha statues, vividly depicting the journey of Shakyamuni Buddha from his birth and quest for truth to his enlightenment and final entry into Nirvana.
The main hall is the central place of worship and also the largest and most beautiful structure within the pagoda complex. Compared to other buildings, the main hall features more subdued colors. It is supported by 16 large columns, each intricately carved and adorned with bas-relief images from Khmer cultural legends.
Inside the main hall. Photo: Tham hiem Mekong
Along both walls are numerous paintings depicting the life of Shakyamuni Buddha from his birth to his enlightenment. What makes the walls and artworks even more special is that they are decorated and crafted using broken pieces of patterned bowls and plates.
Prince Bac Lieu Tran Trinh Huy was a famously extravagant playboy in the 1930s. In later years, he and his descendants sold off many of their possessions for money, and some of these items were purchased by the pagoda. The first standout piece is a pair of hot-and-cold beds, used depending on the weather. Both beds are made from rare, precious wood, inlaid with mother-of-pearl and exquisitely carved with intricate details.
The hot bed is made from panels of fragrant rosewood, ideal for use during cold days. In contrast, the cold bed is inlaid with large stone slabs, perfect for hot and humid weather.
The hot bed bought from Prince Bac Lieu. Photo: Phuong Anh
In addition, the pagoda also preserves a long table and a round table, both equally exquisite and meticulously crafted. The long table features a redwood surface with legs made of rosewood, while the round table has a stone-inlaid top and legs made of black ebony.
Both tables boast stunning structure and intricate patterns. The rare beauty and refinement of these heirlooms offer a clear glimpse into the lavish lifestyle and extravagant spending habits of Prince Bac Lieu in his heyday.
Chen Kieu Pagoda adds a distinctive touch to the collection of Khmer temples in Soc Trang, each with its own unique charm. Get in touch with Asia King Travel and let us take you to extraordinary, off-the-beaten-path destinations across Vietnam, some places you might not even find on the internet!
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