
Vietnam is a country rich in culture, with a history spanning thousands of years. Its diverse collection of traditional garments, each associated with a particular historical period, serves as a clear testament to that heritage.
Up to now, Ao Dai has remained the most dominant and widely recognized among Vietnamese traditional attire. Whenever the topic of Vietnamese clothing comes up, it's likely that 90% of visitors will think of Ao Dai first.
But here’s the thing: stopping at Ao Dai would be like admiring just one star in a whole galaxy. Vietnam’s cultural wardrobe holds many other hidden gems and today, through this article, Asia King Travel will reveal one of the most majestic pieces among them - Nhat Binh. If you are curious to know what makes it so special, please continue to scroll and let us be your guide book.
Besides the Ao Dai, Vietnam has many other historical costumes (Source: MARC)
Nhat Binh was a ceremonial costume worn by Vietnamese aristocratic women in the past, especially during the Nguyen dynasty. Unlike the flowing elegance of Ao Dai, Nhat Binh conveys a sense of dignity and solemnity.
Many researchers believe that the dress’s name originated from the unique design of its collar. To be more specific, when this attire is worn properly, the front panels will align to form a rectangular shape, which is thought to have inspired the name Nhat Binh, meaning "rectangular sun". However, this is merely an assumption and everything still remains debatable.
This type of Vietnamese traditional attire used to vanish from daily life and is only seen in old photos or museums. Fortunately, thanks to the efforts of many passionate individuals and organizations, this stunning garment has been brought back to life. We are now able to wear it both by buying or renting from antique clothing brands.
Nhat Binh was worn by ancient Vietnamese (Source: Corbis)
Many historical records trace the origin of Nhat Binh back to the Fei Peng garment from the Ming Dynasty in China. To be more specific, the Nguyen dynasty developed the Fei Peng design into a style called Doi Kham Phi Phong. This attire features a large rectangular collar and two flaps fastened together with ties when worn. Originally, it was used as a court dress for women in the royal palace. However, only those with high status and nobility, such as princesses, concubines, or empresses, were permitted to wear it.
The Nguyen dynasty period is considered the golden age of this garment. It became the official ceremonial dress for concubines in the royal court. At the same time, strict regulations controlling design, color, material, and patterns of Nhat Binh also appeared, reflecting the wearer's rank and social status.
Queen Nam Phuong wore Nhat Binh during her visit to the Vatican in 1939 (Source: AP Photo)
The Collar of Nhat Binh is its most distinctive feature. Its height could vary depending on the era and the owner’s social class. In addition, the collar is also intricately decorated with gold or silver thread and metallic embroidery to express a sense of nobility and elegance.
Loose and long are words that best describe Nhat Binh’s silhouette. But don’t worry that wearing this piece of clothes will make your body become straight and bulky. With a touch of two side splits, your waistline can definitely accentuate. This main section is often made from high-quality materials such as silk, brocade, or fine satin, offering a graceful look in general.
The dress’s cuffs represent the five elements (Source: topmot.vn)
The sleeves of Nhat Binh are wide and long, providing a comfortable fit. Depending on the historical period, the sleeves might be tailored in either a tapered or flared style. An interesting detail about this historical costume’s cuffs is the presence of five-colored stripes, which represent the five elements: Metal, Wood, Water, Fire and Earth. These stripes are often combined with other motifs on the above part such as flowers or the Eight Treasures (Jewel or "Pearl", Cash Coin, Open Lozenge, Pair of Books, Mirror, Musical Jade Stone Gong Pair of Rhinoceros Horns, Artemisia Leaf).
The patterns on Nhat Binh are rich and diverse, often featuring symbolic images. Most commonly, you’ll see closed circular designs or phoenix motifs embroidered inside those circles. Additionally, there are floral patterns, longevity characters, and more, all skillfully embroidered or woven with gold and silver threads. In fact, these intricate details carry wishes for happiness and good fortune.
The Nhat Binh robe usually comes with accessories such as buttons inlaid with gold or precious stones. The lower part of the collar is adorned with two long ribbons called Thuy Luu. It was not until the late Nguyen period that a traditional round hat known as the Khan Vanh appeared. Nowadays, most photoshoot services will feature Khan Vanh for customers.
Khan Van is an indispensable part of the costume (Source: The Gioi Di San)
In the last five or six years, ancient Vietnamese costumes including Nhat Binh have gained more visibility, becoming a welcome sight among young locals. This is an ultimate result of the efforts to reproduce and promote historic fashion from a number of designers, brands, and interest groups that appreciate the country’s history and traditions.
During researching and restoring these ancient garments, they faced many obstacles. As high-quality fabric and intricate embroidery or advanced printing techniques are expensive, it is really hard for them to recreate these garments. Besides the struggle with funding, they must also cope with a lack of previous research and reference materials. These records had been lost or destroyed over time due to wars, natural disasters, or simply the passage of time.
A Young girl wore this precious dress in Hue Imperial City (Source: The Vinh)
Despite that, more and more organizations and projects are rising. Nhat Binh is brought to the public through various channels: fashion shows, movies, artistic photo shoots, gifts to foreign diplomatic entities, etc. Therefore, it is popularized to the point that rental services for this Vietnamese ancient costume are now available at nearly every popular historical site across Vietnam.
At the top of the list, we have a must-visit historical site for Nhat Binh Photography, the Temple of Literature. This is Vietnam’s first university, hence, the architecture offers a rich blend of timeless and dignified atmosphere. There are a ton of photogenic corners to let your camera and creativity run free, from the serene well of Heavenly Clarity to the iconic Khue Van Pavilion, tree-lined paths, and lotus ponds.
Some pictures of the attire at Temple of Literature (Source: vietphuc.net)
Next, we will head to Japanese Covered Bridge in Hoi An. Although it was originally built by the Japanese, through various restorations and renovations, the bridge has been enhanced with many architectural elements characteristic of Vietnamese culture. This destination will provide you with plenty of iconic backdrops to choose from and strike your best poses in the Nhat Binh costume.
Read more: Hoi An Tour 3 Days: Perfect Itinerary in Lantern Town
Wedding Photos with the attire in Hoi An (Source: Hoi An Film)
Last but not least, to capture the essence of this costume, chosen locations should embody historical elegance and traditional Vietnamese beauty. And Hue Imperial City definitely satisfies this key criterion since it used to be the capital city of the Nguyen Dynasty. When you bring Nhat Binh to its hometown, these two will match each other perfectly. As a result, every corner here should offer a backdrop that enhances the grace and heritage of this attire.
The costume perfectly matches Hue Imperial City’s vibe (Source: The Vinh)
In conclusion, whether you're a history enthusiast, a fashion lover, or simply curious about Vietnam’s imperial past, experiencing the Nhat Binh firsthand is truly unforgettable. Don’t hesitate any longer, book your Vietnam tour with Asia King Travel to wear the graceful dress and create unforgettable memories now!
Read more: Hue Tour 2 Days: Discover the Imperial Beauty and Culture