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As Vietnam’s national costume, the ao dai represents cultural identity and national pride. It reflects the elegance, modesty, and gentle beauty central to Vietnamese values. Worn by Vietnamese across generations, the áo dài is both a fashion choice and a tribute to Vietnam’s cultural heritage.
Every Vietnamese wears ao dai with pride
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the dress represents Vietnam’s rich history and traditions. Its design has evolved over centuries, shaped by diverse cultural and historical influences, yet it remains a timeless and iconic garment. If you’re beginning to fall in love with this dress, let’s explore its story together with Asia King Travel.
The origins of the ao dai can be traced back to the period of division between Dang Trong and Dang Ngoai. Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat sought to distinguish the customs of the South from those of the North under Lord Trinh’s rule. He ordered the population to shift from the four-panel, belted tunic to a five-panel tunic with two long flaps, an early form closely resembling the ao dai.
A five-panel tunic (ao ngu than)
The ao dai as we know it today took shape during the French colonial period (1885–1945). During this time, the traditional garment underwent a significant transformation. The robe was tailored to fit the body more closely, featuring a high collar and fitted sleeves. The earliest modern ao dai designs are often attributed to artists Cat Tuong and Le Pho.
An ao dai design by Artist Lemur Cat Tuong
Over time, the dress continued to evolve. During the 1920s and 1930s, it became more form-fitting, with a shorter length and tighter sleeves, reflecting the influence of Western fashion trends. In the 1960s, fashion designers made another transformation, with the addition of the iconic long slits on both sides of the skirt for greater freedom of movement.
The casual design is a fitted silk tunic worn over long silk pants. The tunic is tailored close to the body from the shoulders down to the waist, accentuating the wearer's curves. Below the waist, the tunic flares out into a flowing panel that falls gracefully over the wide-legged pants.
Various colorways and silhouettes of the dress
One of the most distinct features is the two panels that make up the front and back of the tunic. These panels are sewn together at the shoulders and side seams. The front panel typically has a contoured neckline that can vary in style.
The pants that go along with it are loose and wide-legged, often made from the same silk material as the tunic. The pants are designed to be worn underneath the long tunic, creating a flowing appearance as the wearer moves.
Dreamy shades of purple have long been associated with the beauty of Hue girls
While the basic form is consistent across Vietnam, there are regional variations. The north is more conservative, with higher necklines and subdued colors. In Hue, the former imperial capital, it often features more intricate embroidery, vibrant colors, and elaborate designs.
Traditionally, Vietnam national dress is crafted from natural fibers like silk, cotton, or linen. Luxurious silk fabric lends an elegant sheen and lightweight drape, making it a popular choice for formal occasions. Breathable and comfortable cotton is well-suited for everyday wear, especially in Vietnam's tropical climate. Linen adds a touch of sophistication to the design.
Silk has superior qualities and requires a sophisticated production process, which contributes to its high price
In modern times, synthetic fabrics like polyester and chiffon have also found their way. However, many traditionalists argue that these materials compromise the authentic essence of the garment.
Vietnamese people wear the ao dai for special occasions and festivals. During Lunar New Year celebrations, it is common to see mothers and sisters dressed in ao dai as they visit relatives. Flowing silk, adorned with intricate patterns and vibrant colors, adds a touch of grace to the festive atmosphere.
The ao dai is a common school uniform for high school girls in southern Vietnam
Weddings are another occasion where this elegant dress takes center stage. Brides often choose to wear the ao dai during their wedding ceremonies, symbolizing a connection to cultural roots and the virtues of modesty. Delicate embroidery and rich hues enhance the bride’s beauty, making it a perfect choice for the union of two souls.
People often choose red or yellow to express the Tet atmosphere
Formal events such as graduations, business meetings, and diplomatic gatherings are also occasions where the ao dai is commonly worn. Its sophisticated silhouette conveys professionalism and respect.
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Van Phuc Silk Village (Hanoi) has been famous for hundreds of years. “Ha Dong silk” and its traditional handicrafts are frequently mentioned in ancient poetry. Even today, many families continue weaving silk on traditional looms.
Van Phuc Village has a long-standing tradition of silk making
Silk fabric is always appreciated for its diverse patterns, elegant lines, and the sense of freedom it brings to the viewer. Buying an ao dai from Van Phuc silk means you are receiving traditional Vietnamese values.
In the heart of the capital, finding a traditional tailor shop is not difficult; a simple Google search will reveal a list of well-known tailoring brands. However, for those seeking a dress imbued with a strong Hanoi identity, many will point to the century-old tailor shops tucked away in the Hanoi Old Quarter.
Mrs. Quyen’s Vinh Trach tailor shop, a small establishment located at 23 Luong Van Can Street, is a beloved destination for many customers. At first glance, the shop still carries the familiar atmosphere of Hanoi in the 1990s. To this day, Ms. Quyen’s family has preserved the tailoring tradition for five generations.
Mrs. Quyen is still passionate about her profession
Mr. Le Van Hao, originally from Trach Xa Silk Village, established his tailor shop, My Hao, at 82 Cau Go Street. After more than half a century in the trade, he passed the profession on to his son and daughter, who went on to open their own tailor shops. Today, all of these shops are highly popular among customers.
The ao dai not only lends a gentle beauty to the wearer but also blends harmoniously with the atmosphere of Hoi An Ancient Town. While visitors may encounter many styles of clothing here, traditional costumes stand out most, radiating a timeless and distinctive charm.
Traditional clothing is the ideal complement to the ancient town's historic ambiance
Simply strolling through the streets, you’ll find plenty of tailor shops. Take your time when choosing your preferred color and style. With their skilled hands, Hoi An tailors can create a new dress in just one day!
If you prefer a traditional style, opt for an ao dai with a high collar and long sleeves. The front and back panels should be well-balanced to maintain a classic silhouette. A round neckline is also a flattering option, as it softens the overall look while subtly minimizing the neck and midsection and highlighting the bust.
Listen to the tailor's advice to choose your most suitable style
Custom-tailored dresses can be quite expensive. Silk usually ranges from VND 200,000 to 400,000 per meter, not including tailoring fees. If you’re looking for a budget-friendly alternative, renting an ao dai for a photoshoot is a great option.
During the measurement process, be as natural as possible. Don’t hold in your stomach or wear shapewear, as this may cause sizing issues. A poorly fitted dress, whether too tight or too loose, can be uncomfortable and limit movement. For best results, tailors also suggest avoiding heavy meals before your fitting.
The ao dai has celebrated the beauty of Vietnamese women for centuries and continues to stand as a symbol of national pride. Now, it also acts as an ambassador for Vietnam’s tourism, welcoming travelers from across the globe to experience its elegance firsthand.
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