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Qui Nhon
is the little visited provincial capital of Binh Dinh province.
Although it was recognised as a city as late as 1898, its history
reaches back to the days of the Kingdom of Champa. In the 11th
century, the Cham people migrated southwards and moved their capital
city to a location about 30km north of present-day Qui Nhon and
named it Vijaya. It survived until 1471, when the citadel was sacked
by the Vietnamese.
The nearby
city of An Nhon (formerly Binh Dinh) was an old Annamese capital.
On both the
railroad and coastal highway, it became an important naval and military
base during the Vietnam War. The small fishing port was dredged and
expanded by the United States military in 1965. Its strategic role led
to heavy fighting in the surrounding area.
Today, Qui
Nhon is an expanding port city with a population of about a quarter of a
million. until recently, it has been isolated from the main tourism
routes roughly half-way between Danang and Nha Trang. However, air links
to Danang and Ho Chi Minh City has made it more accessible, and a
recently-built international hotel offers the possibility of a relaxing
break well away from the more travelled path.
The
ancient Cham Pa legacy
Little remains of Vijaya. It became the capital of the short-lived Tay
Son Kingdom in the 18th century and abandoned thereafter. Now only a few
walls and a single tower remain standing.
There are
fourteen Cham towers and monuments in varying stages of decay around
Binh Dinh province, but the most convenient are a mere two kilometres
from Qui Nhon city centre. The Thap Doi Cham Towers are surrounded by
buildings, which diminished their impact somewhat, but they are good
examples of Cham craftsmanship.
Further away,
there are two notable sites. The four remaining towers of the Banh It
group are on a hill just outside Binh Dinh town, about 25km inland from
Qui Nhon. The 22m-high main tower has been restored, with plenty of
replacement brickwork in evidence. The neighboring tower has also been
tidied up, but has been left in a rougher state. Several fine
bas-reliefs of dancers from Banh It are displayed in the Cham Museum in
Danang.
Around 50km
from Qui Nhon, the three Thap Nga (Ivory) Cham Towers are regarded as
one of the best Cham tower complexes in Vietnam. The central building is
24m high, and embellished with granite ornamentation representing Naga
and Elephants. The others are both 22m high.
The
Quang Trung Museum
Nguyen Hue, a national hero of the 18th century, was one of three
brothers who led the Tay Son Insurrection. In 1788, he led a peasant
army northwards from Phu Xuan (Hue) to Thang Long (Hanoi) where they
defeated the occupying Chinese forces and liberated the royal capital.
Nguyen Hue declared himself Emperor Quang Trung, but his dynasty lasted
only fourteen years before his forces were crushed by the Nguyen Lords.
Despite the
brevity of his reign, he is regarded with great affection in Vietnam,
hence the museum created in his memory. It’s located in Kien My village
in Tay Son District, 45km from Qui Nhon,
The
Long Khanh Pagoda
Quin Nhon City is short of attractions, but the Long Khanh pagoda is
worth a visit. The 17m high Buddha is impressive, as is the
‘thousand-eyed and thousand handed’ Goddess of Mercy.
The
Leper Hospital
Normally, this wouldn’t feature as a place to visit. However, this one
is different. Instead of the usual depressing institution, Qui Nhon’s
Leper Hospital is a model of good practice. Patients live with their
family in comfortable chalets in well maintained gardens, and work on
handicrafts. Visitors are always welcomed, and most find it an uplifting
experience.
The
Beach!
Qui Nhon’s beach is quite small, but OK. However, Qui Hoa beach is about
eight kilometers away and much better. By coincidence, you get there
through the grounds of the Leper Hospital.
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