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The remote Con
Dao group of islands is about 180km from Vung Tau, and has a local
population of around 5,000. The main island, Con Son, w as
a much-feared former penal colony until 1975. Most of the archipelago is
now a National Park with some good beaches, clear water with pristine
coral, lush tropical forest with many flowers, coconut groves, and few
visitors. Accommodation is limited, but a new air link is starting to
generate interest in visiting this largely unspoilt area.
History
Once known as ‘Poulo Condor’ and long considered a Southeast Asian
‘Devil's Island’, Con Son is the largest island in the archipelago. The
infamous Con Son prison complex was established by the French colonial
authority early in the nineteenth century. From then until 1975 the
French colonial administration, followed by the Saigon government,
incarcerated political prisoners in brutal conditions, often in tiny
underground boxes known as ‘tiger cages’. The Hang Duong cemetery holds
the remains of the many prisoners that died there.
Throughout the
colo nial
period and its use by the Saigon regime, Con Dao’s only inhabitants were
the prisoners, their guards, and a small contingent of soldiers and
administrators. The true extent of the appalling treatment of inmates
only became known after victory and reunification in May 1975.
Since then, a
small town has developed on the western side of Con Son in and around
the old penal colony complex. It’s an attractive community with
excellent civic amenities and a road layout that would put most
Vietnamese towns to shame, despite its size.
The
weather
Con Dao is located at a point where cool and warm ocean
currents converge and create a localised climatic system. From June to
September, frequent fierce squalls buffet the west facing aspects of the
islands whilst the east is sheltered. In September, the currents and
winds reverse thus exposing the east of the islands to bad weather until
January. The weather is calm all over the archipelago during the
remainder of the year.
This
unusual weather pattern allows swimming, snorkelling and diving to be an
all-year-round activity.
The
National Park
The French wardens forced prisoners to collect live coral and turn it
into lime. The coral reefs survived, but only to face further damage
from uncontrolled and destructive fishing. The National Park was
established in 1977, but protection extended only to the flora and fauna
on land. The park now covers fourteen of the sixteen islands and their
surrounding marine areas.
The forest
cover on the islands is dense: a sizable proportion is in pristine
condition, particularly the humid hill forest growing above 500m above
sea level.
Even though
control over the exploitative use of the sea was established as late as
1993, and despite the damage wreaked by the French, over a thousand
hectares of Con Dao National Park's coral reefs survive in the shallow
waters - a stark contrast to other areas of Vietnam that have low coral
cover as a result of overexploitation, destructive fishing, and
sedimentation.
The entire
marine area is rich in biodiversity: over 1,300 species of sea animals
have already been identified. The ecosystems on Con Dao are favourable
habitats for rare species such as the Hawksbill and Green Turtles, and
Dugong, the strange creatures popularly known as ‘sea cows’ and believed
to be the source of the ‘mermaid’ legends from their habit of sunbathing
on rocks.
Conservation efforts
The World Wide Fund for Nature has been active in protecting sea turtles
and dugong. Since 1995, more than 300,000 baby turtles have been
released to the sea and nearly 1,000 mature turtles have been tagged.
Con Dao
National Park is now considered one of the best examples of marine
conservation in Vietnam, complete with regulations to limit fishing
activities and prohibit destructive fishing, and is a model for marine
conservation throughout the country. There are plans for eco-friendly
development within the park’s boundaries.
The
future
Con Dao has significant value for many types of conservation and
eco-friendly tourism development. Five-star PADI scuba diving will soon
be available: there are several outstanding dive sites offering
sightings of dolphins, turtles and dugong as well as a wide range of
other species.
Con Dao is
definitely a place for nature lovers, but also an opportunity to visit
an unspoilt tropical island before development. There is little doubt
that it will soon become a popular destination, so if you want peace and
solitude in a pristine setting, now’s the time to go.
Possible activities.
There is a small museum in what used to be the French Governor’s
residence overlooking the main bay. Its four rooms cover the islands’
history, most of which centres upon the penal colony. The first room
contains general information about the archipelago. The second is called
‘Hell on Earth’. On its walls are faded photographs, illustrations and
paintings depicting the inhuman treatment meted out by their gaolers.
Under the
French, there was some semblance of order and control. Prisoners
incarcerated for relatively minor offences could gain privileges for
co-operation and be released to the mainland. Under the Saigon regime,
prisoners were treated even more brutally. Pictures of the comfortable
life of the prison administrators and their guests contrast eerily with
the squalor of the inmates. Various artefacts, memorabilia and examples
of the instruments of torture are on display – particularly poignant are
fragments of paper weapons and costumes made by inmates as props for New
Year celebration performances.
The third room
has a wall of photographs of prominent Vietnamese agitators and
revolutionaries who underwent slow execution in the tiger cages, and
other prisoners who served time and later rose to prominence after
liberation. There is also a display of makeshift weapons. The final room
depicts the years since liberation.
The museum
arranges a tour of the complex with a guide. However, the level of
English spoken is low, so patience and a phrase book are necessary. The
tour should take a couple of hours.
The main
island offers good camping, hiking and trekking opportunities – the
National Park Headquarters on the outskirts of the town can provide you
with information about suitable trails and paths. There are no organised
water sports, but there are opportunities for scuba diving and
snorkelling. The Diving Centre is located on the seafront. Services are
limited at present, but the centre should be in full operation later
this year. Boat services are a bit problematic at present, but should
improve soon.
There are some
good beaches on Con Son. Some can be reached on foot, but the better
locations involve a long hike or hiring a motorbike. There are many
secluded beaches on the on the other islands.
Getting there
A fast boat service linking Vung Tau with Con Lon was established last
year, and in May 2004, the national flag carrier, Vietnam Airlines,
began operating six flights a week from Ho Chi Minh City to Con Dao. The
aeroplane takes about 50 minutes, and the boat takes twelve hours.
Facilities
There are no taxis on the islands, and virtually no ‘xe oms’ (motorbike
taxis). However, it’s easy to hire a small motorbike to get around the
island. Prices are somewhat higher than on the mainland.
Accommodation
is basic and limited - the best hotel on the island is lower than our
‘local’ standard. Restaurants are few and far between, and the cuisine
is rudimentary. Don’t be misled by tales of exotic fruits in abundance –
it’s mainly bananas and coconuts. Everything else comes from the
mainland. However, the seafood is first-rate.
Weather
Con Dao’s exposed position in the East China Sea means its weather
patterns differ from those on the mainland. The wet season is from July
to September. During this period, the western sides of the islands are
subject to frequent violent squalls with strong winds and visibility
down to about 100m. They last about half an hour, but can be quite
frightening. Swimming, diving and snorkelling can be dangerous.
From September
to January, the wind reverses leaving the western side reasonably calm
and the eastern side wet and windy.
From January
to June, conditions are usually calm all over the archipelago.
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