The
most northerly of the three towns on the Highland plateaux, the
provincial capital of Kon Tum is located on the banks of the Dakbla
River about 900km from Ho Chi Minh City and around 200km from Qui
Nhon. It’s a pleasant, unassuming sort of place. There are well over
600 ethnic minority villages and hamlets in the province, mostly Ba
Na, Xo Dang, Gie Trieng and Gia Rai. A sizeable proportion of the
population has converted to Catholicism.
The French
used Kon Tum as their administrative centre for the Central Highlands
and built a large prison to subdue the local population. They deployed
the prisoners as forced labour to build Highway 19 – needless to say,
many died.
One of the
best-known international guidebooks has much to say about Kon Tum’s
historic prison, concluding that the “local tourism authorities have not
quite grasped the economic potential of this would-be war museum.” H
ad
the authors checked, they’d have known that the prison was demolished
after the war and completely rebuilt between 1998 and 2000 by the
tourism department to capitalise upon an unwitting tourist market. Oops!
However,
the town has two French-built churches that definitely shouldn’t be
missed. The small, whitewashed Tan Huong Church was built around the
1850s. It stands on stilts, although it’s not immediately obvious.
Inside, it’s a gem. Most of the stained glass is original, and there’s a
splendid vaulted ceiling. The roof has been replaces, but the original
‘fishscale’ tiles can be seen on the tower.
The
better-known ‘Wooden Church’ was built in 1913, and has been carefully
restored. The stained-glass window includes both Christian and local
imagery.
The
Bishop’s Palace isn’t open to the public, but it’s worth a look from
outside.
While in
Kon Tum, we encourage our guests to visit the town’s Ba Na orphanage.
It’s a poorly funded charitable foundation, but the children are well
cared for despite the somewhat Spartan surroundings. You’ll get a very
warm welcome, and they’ll get a decent donation on your behalf, a
transaction that sends everyone away happy.
The main
attraction of the area around Kon Tum is dozens of easily accessible
ethnic minority villages. Visitors can stroll through ethnic
communities, meet the people and experience their daily life. You’re
very unlikely to run into beggars or other nuisances: even the children
don’t cluster around or pester strangers. People are very friendly, and
happy to welcome guests into their houses. Homestays are av
ailable.
‘Rafting’
down DakBla River in an inflatable dingy, a riverside picnic, swimming,
dinner in the Rong house of a Ba Na village followed by wine and
conversation with the locals typifies the experiences offered by this
little-known area and its easygoing, good-natured people.
If you want
to get further away, there are plenty of good trekking routes taking you
through attractive countryside and across precarious bridges to reach
more remote villages. Accommodation will most likely be in the local
‘rong’ house. You need to be flexible and adaptable, though – the local
authorities have differing ideas about what’s allowed and what isn’t,
which is why you need one of our expert guides to smooth the way!
